Nose: Smoke is immediately apparent: burnt matchsticks and the embers from a coal fire. Dry sawdust on a carpenter’s floor. Then the sweetness: streaky bacon stacked high on pancakes drizzled with heather honey, alongside banana bread, ginger ale and under-ripe apricots.
Palate: A bold maritime peat rolls around the palate, coming and going like waves on the shore. Salt-crusted rye bread, extra virgin olive oil, roasted butternut squash, Chinese five-spice, and a salad of apples and fresh samphire. Smoldering juniper branches and white pepper follow, with a glass of crisp aperitif wine.
Finish: Lingering wet ashes, bags of dried orchard fruit, thyme and grilled lemons. Finally, some of the five-spice comes back – star anise and fennel.